Cinnamon Girl Cardigan Knit Along

Cinnamon Girl Cardigan by Amy Christoffers

Welcome to the official Mountain Hollow Farm Cinnamon Girl Cardigan KAL page! If you have not done so yet, purchase your pattern at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cinnamon-girl-cardigan.

This page is designed to support you throughout your project.  The KAL dates are April 14, 2018 – July 7, 2018. As a KAL participant, you are welcome to add comments or questions to this post and I will respond ASAP during that timeframe.

Live KAL support will also be offered in our store during the following times:
Thursdays 2-4 pm
Thursdays 6-8 pm
Saturdays 10-noon

I like to get a head start on KALs so that I am prepared to help participants if they have trouble. This page is laid out in the order that you will knit your sweater. It is broken into sections so you can easily find the section you are working on.

I anticipate that I will add more instructions to this page as I progress on my own sweater, particularly for adding the sleeves to the body and doing the applied i-cord.

If you are an accomplished knitter, you may not need all of the instruction on this page. However, I recommend that you at least read the ErrataTubular Cast On & Knitting the Sleeves, and Adding a Cable to Your Sleeve sections below.

Recommended Supplies

In addition to your yarn and knitting needles, you will need:

  • Stitch markers in 3 different colors or styles
  • Cable needle (I prefer Brittany cable needles)
  • Highlighter tape (optional, but highly recommended if you are using a paper pattern)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Waste yarn for the provisional cast on and to hold your sleeve stitches

General Tips to Make Your Knitting Easier

  • Highlight your size and the stitch counts for your size throughout the pattern before you start knitting.
  • Use stitch markers before and after chart A and chart B stitches (use one color for chart A and another for chart B
  • Use a 3rd color stitch marker to mark the ktb and ptb (knit through the back loop and purl through the back loop) stitches
  • Use stitch markers to keep track of which rows to cable and which rows to do increases or decreases on (as explained below)
  • Lifelines aren’t just for lace knitting; if you are concerned about making mistakes in the pattern work, use a lifeline

Errata

There are several mistakes in this pattern:

  • The instructions for the cable 6 left and cable 6 right charts are reversed (page 3)
  • The “set up rib” in the Body section of page 5 should be “knit 1, purl 1”, not “purl 1, knit 1”.
  • The set up row has 3 mistakes in it. The corrected instructions are in the Set Up Row Corrections section below.
  • See the Knitting the Rest of the Sweater Body section for an explanation and corrections to the instructions right after the set up row
    Cinnamon Girl Chart Correction

              Cinnamon Girl Chart Correction

  • There is a mistake in Chart A. Thanks to Vina Faulkner for discovering this one… The corrections are in red:
  • Stitch count on page 6 after the increase row is wrong for size 44½. It should be 228.
  • Stitch counts at the end of page 7 are wrong. They should be 116 (120, 132, 136, 148, 152)
  • See the Joining the Sleeves section for an explanation and corrections to the instructions at the end of page 6 and all of page 7 of the pattern.

Swatching & Calculating Gauge

Make a swatch that is at least 6” square. THIS IS NOT A WASTE OF TIME OR YARN! Swatching and measuring your gauge is ESSENTIAL to make sure your sweater fits!

For this yarn, cast on 28 stitches for your swatch. This is how I did my swatch:

Rows 1-4: K28

Row 5: K3, p22, k3

Row 6: K28

Repeat rows 5 & 6 until your swatch is 5”

Last 4 rows: Knit

This gives you a stockinette (or reverse stockinette) swatch with a garter stitch border to keep the edges from rolling.


I like to “record” my needle size by putting eyelets in my swatch. So for a size 7 needle, I would put 7 eyelets in it by doing (yo, k2tog) 7 times in row 6 starting with the 5th stitch.

Wash and block your swatch, then measure the number of stitches in 4” in the center of the swatch. Divide that number by 4 to get the number of stitches per inch, which will be useful if your gauge doesn’t exactly match the pattern gauge and you want to calculate what size to make for your gauge, which is explained below.

If you record all this information, you can refer back to it for future projects and you will never have to swatch with that yarn and needle size again – assuming you don’t change the type of needle you use or your knitting technique.

Knitting needle material affects row gauge

I swatched with size 7 needle since I usually have to go down a needle size. My gauge was 16.5 sts & 24 rows in 4” unblocked.

After blocking, my swatch gauge is 15.5 sts & 22 rows in 4” (15.5 / 4 = 3.88 stitches per inch), so my stitches are ever so slightly larger than the pattern gauge. I’m going to go with it since the 44.5” size is about 1” smaller than I’d like. My larger stitches should make up the difference. If my calculations are correct, I should end up with a 45.9” sweater a little longer than the model sweater. Perfect!

Here’s how I calculated my final size:

  • 44.5” x 4 sts per inch / 3.88 sts per inch = 45.9” finished size according to my gauge
  • Explanation: take the measurement for the size you want to make and multiply it by the # of sts per inch stated in the pattern gauge. Then divide the total # of sts by your gauge per inch. This gives you the finished size of your garment using your gauge.
  • The formula:

M=Measurement of the size you want to make, as stated in the pattern

G=# stitches per inch, as stated in the pattern

Y=# stitches per inch, in your swatch

Formula: M x G / Y = Finished size

If I wanted a smaller size, I would use the formula above to figure out what size mine would turn out if I followed the instructions for the 41” size. In that case my formula would be: 41 x 4 / 3.88 = 42.27” finished size. You can do the same thing to go up a size.

Even though I used a size 7 instead of size 8 needle for the pattern, I used size 5 as the pattern suggests for the cuffs. This was a personal choice since I didn’t want the ribbing to be too tight, I’m sure a size  4 would have worked fine too.

Tubular Cast On & Knitting the Sleeves

The tubular cast on is perfect for ribbing. It is a very stretchy cast on that integrates invisibly with the ribbing.

Tip: The cast on creates a very small tube at the beginning of the piece. If your cast on looks sloppy, try inserting a size 3 or 4 knitting needle into the tube and stretching the stitches around it. This smooths out the cast on and makes the stitches more even.

Using a provisional crochet cast on with waste yarn, do the Tubular Cast On for the sleeves, as described here: https://www.craftsy.com/knitting/article/tubular-cast-on-…

This is a good video tutorial for the provisional crochet cast on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqWfea8oOH8

I did the 5 rows of the tubular cast on. On row 6, I started knitting the ribbing in the round by transferring the last stitch of row 5 to the left hand needle and knitting it together with the first stitch.

I knit 5 rows of ribbing (10 rows total, but it looks like 7 rows because the CO rows are doubled over), then I removed the provisional cast on and started the 2nd sleeve on another circular needle.

When I got to the same spot on the 2nd sleeve, I transferred both sleeves to one circular needle to knit 2 at a time using the Magic Loop. Note: if you are going to do a cable on the sleeve as described in the next section, you’ll want to position all of the cable stitches on the same needle.

I like knitting my sleeves 2 at a time because then I know they match exactly. You do not have to knit them 2 at a time.

The pattern calls for 9 rows of ribbing on the sleeve cuffs. Because the cast on is doubled over in the beginning, I actually did more rows (11 or 12 total) so that there were 9 rows visible on the outside of the sleeve. I counted the rows for the body ribbing similarly.

I also used this cast on for the body of the sweater.

Adding a Cable to the Sleeve

The original Cinnamon Girl Cardigan pattern has a plain reverse stockinette sleeve. A Raveler, teenap, spiced up her sleeve by doing moss stitch and a cable. I liked this modification, so I did my sleeves the same.

If you like that modification and know how to do increases and stay in pattern, go for it!

If you don’t know how to stay in pattern while doing increases, but still want to spice up your sleeve, I suggest doing reverse stockinette – as written in the pattern – and adding a cable, as follows:

Cast on and do the ribbing as written in the pattern.

In the last round of ribbing, place markers after stitch 13 (13, 14, 14, 16, 17) and stitch 23 (23, 24, 24, 26, 27). You should have 10 stitches between the markers. All 10 of these stitches need to be on the same needle, or same side of the need if you are doing magic loop. These are the stitches that will be used for the cable pattern. The stitches outside of the markers will be done in reverse stockinette, incorporating the increases as stated in the pattern.

Cable pattern

Row 1*: Ktb, p1, cb6, p1, ktb

Row 2: Ktb, p1, k6, p1, ktb

Rows 3-6: Repeat row 2

*Note: cb6 for one sleeve and cf6 for the other sleeve

Ktb = knit through the back loop
cb6 = transfer 3 sts to a cable needle and hold in back, k3, k3 from cable needle
cf6 = transfer 3 sts to a cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle

Repeat this pattern for the length of the sleeve, remembering to do the increases as specified in the pattern.

The next section explains how I easily keep track of which rows to cable and which rows to increase on.

Using Stitch Markers to Track Your Rows 

It can be hard to count rows in cable patterns. To keep track of which row you’re on, put a marker in one of the stitches in the row in which the cable is done. (Put the marker in a stitch you just knit off the needle; not the loop on the needle.)

Then, count the rows from the stitch marker to see where you’re at in the pattern. Use the same method for tracking on which rows to do increases or decreases.

Use stitch markers to track your rows

Set Up Row Corrections

There are 3 mistakes in the set up row. I’ve rewritten it with the corrections and I divided the row into several lines (separated by the side seam markers) to make it easier to read. I strongly recommend that you use a highlighter to highlight the stitch counts for your size throughout the entire pattern before you start knitting.

Set up row

K1, p1, chart A, p1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4), ktb, p1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), cable 6 left, p1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), ktb, p1 (2, 2, 3, 3,4), chart B, p4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9),

slip marker,
p3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8), chart B, p1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4), ktb, p1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), cable 6 right, p1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), ktb, p1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4), chart A, p1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4), ktb, p1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), cable 6 left, p1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), ktb, p1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4), chart B, p3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8),

slip marker,
p4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9), chart B, p1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4), ktb, p1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), cable 6 right, p1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3), ktb, p1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4), chart A, p1, k1.

Knitting the Rest of the Sweater Body

After the set up row, the pattern says to: “Next, and every WS row: Work all stitches as they appear, knit the knits, purl the purls”. Let me explain that better…

One of the reasons I encourage you to put stitch markers in before and after charts A & B is because you will have to follow the charts on every row, so the pattern instruction is not completely accurate when it says “Work all stitches as they appear”.

If you are not adept at knitting from charts, see the Knitting from Charts section below.

Between charts A & B, you will mostly knit the knits and purl the purls on the wrong side rows, EXCEPT you will want to purl-through-the-back-loop (ptb) the knit-through-the-back-loop (ktb) stitches. That’s why I encourage you to mark those stitches with a stitch marker.

This photo shows a portion of my sweater. Chart A is outlined by green stitch markers, Chart B is outlined by purple stitch markers. There is a plastic stitch marker to mark the side “seam” (the pattern instructs us to use the seam markers as they are useful for doing the waist shaping. There is no seam, but if there was, it would be there.)

I am not using markers to mark my ktb and ptb stitches (twisted stitches). I recognize them well enough to be able to do them on the fly.

Knitting from Charts

I love knitting from charts! They take up much less space than written directions and they are a visual representation of what the pattern looks like. If you are using a paper pattern, highlighter tape will be very helpful. For charts, I position the highlighter tape right ABOVE the row I’m working on. That way, I can clearly see the current row as well as the rows below it that have been completed.

Charts depict the right (or public) side of the fabric. Therefore, in the key you will see 2 instructions for each symbol: one for the right side (RS) and another for the wrong side (WS).

Reading charts is slightly different when knitting in the round versus knitting flat.

When knitting in the round, read every line from RIGHT to LEFT. You always use the RS instructions for each symbol because when you are knitting in the round, you are always on a right side row.

When knitting flat, read the right side rows RIGHT to LEFT and the wrong side rows LEFT to RIGHT. In addition to remembering which direction to read the chart, you also have to remember whether to do the RS or WS stitch for each symbol.

Many charts have the RS row numbers on the right of the chart, and either omit the WS row numbers or they have the WS row numbers on the left side of the chart. That is a nice visual reminder for which side of the chart to read from.

Color coding makes chart knitting easier

I like to color code my charts. You can use one color to highlight the RS row numbers and RS instructions and another color for the WS row numbers and instructions. You can also highlight stitches to help you see them better.

This graphic shows how I might color my chart:

  • Red for RS rows and instructions
  • Blue for WS rows and instructions
  • Yellow for cable 4 left
  • Purple for cable 4 right

Reading charts can be intimidating at first, but with a little practice you will get the hang of it and be whizzing through them with no problems.

Note: In between Charts A & B, you will be doing a section with a 6-stitch cable and the twisted stitches. I encourage you to mark every 6th row on one or both of your charts to remind you on which rows to do the cable. All the rows in the cable pattern are the same except the row in which you do the cable, which is every 6th row starting with row 1.

Joining the Sleeves

(End of page 6 and all of page 7 in the original pattern)

See the Eratta section above for correct stitch counts on pages 6 & 7.

If you did a cable on the sleeves, it is important to make sure the cable is centered over the underarm stitches so that when you join the sleeves, the cable is centered on top. If your cable is not centered, simply move the appropriate number of stitches from one waste yarn to the other.

Also, if you did left-leaning cables on one sleeve and right-leaning cables on the other sleeve, attach your left-leaning cabled sleeve to the body first so your sleeves match the cables on the front of the sweater.

The increase section on page 6 ends with “Work through pattern row 44 (42, 40, 38, 34, 34)”. So you end with a wrong side row.

The next instruction on page 7, states that it is a WS row. What, what???

It also has you placing stitches on waste yarn, but if you do it as the pattern is written, you’ll have a long strand of your working yarn spanning those stitches or you’ll pull your working yarn tight and have a weird little hole where the sleeve should go.

Here’s my fix:

First, put the top-of-the-sleeve stitches on a needle the same size or smaller than the needle you are using for the body to make it easier to knit them in this step. Leave the underarm stitches on waste yarn.

Then combine the row that you put the underarm stitches on waste yarn with the first Yoke row, as follows (this is a RS row):

Work across 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60) body stitches, place the next 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17) body stitches onto waste yarn for the underarm, place marker for raglan, work across 37 (39, 41, 43, 45, 47) held sleeve stitches, place marker for raglan, work across 78 (82, 86, 90, 94, 98) body stitches, place the next 7 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17) body stitches onto waste yarn for the underarm, place marker for raglan, work across 37 (39, 41, 43, 45, 47) held sleeve stitches, place marker for raglan, work across remaining 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60) body stitches—252 (264, 276, 288, 300, 312) stitches on the needles.

When you are done this row, your sleeves should be attached to the body and the stitches on waste yarn (both from the body and from the sleeves) should form a hole in the underarm, which you will seam later.

Work 1 row in pattern.

The decrease row has a small mistake (highlighted in red below):

Decrease row (RS): Work to 4 stitches before the first marker, SSK/P (work decreases in pattern), left twist 2, slip marker, p2 together, work to 2 stitches before the 2nd marker, SSP, slip marker, right twist 2, knit/purl 2 together, work to 4 stitches before the 3rd marker, SSK/P, left twist 2, slip marker, purl 2 together, work to 2 stitches before the next marker, SSP, slip marker, right twist 2, knit/purl 2 together, work to end in patterns—8 stitches decreased.

A few clarifications:

  1. On page 7 where is says “Repeat the decrease row every RS row 4 times”… This means do the decrease row a total of 5 times.
  2. Now that the sleeves are attached to the body, you need to work the body in the body pattern and the sleeves in the sleeve pattern.
  3. Be careful to stay in pattern as you do the raglan decreases. The decreases will decrease the number of stitches in your charts. This is an instance when it is beneficial to know how to read your knitting.

Conclusion

I hope you’ve enjoyed knitting your Cinnamon Girl Cardigan!

If you found this page helpful, please go to my Ravelry project page and click the “Yes” button beside the “are these notes helpful?” question below the notes section. Also, sign up for our email list here to be notified of future knit alongs.

Edit History

  • 4/20/18 Added link to provisional crochet cast on video; fixed the mistake in the cable pattern for the sleeve; added explanation of counting rows for the tubular cast on and ribbing; added note to end of Knitting from Charts section about marking the charts for the cable rows
  • 5/13/18 Added Joining the sleeves section
  • 5/13/18 Added several items to the  Errata section:
    • Chart mistake
    • Read corrections in the Joining the Sleeves section 
    • Stitch counts on page 6 & 7
  • 5/17/18 Added “Set up rib” mistake to the Errata section

  1. In my blocked swatch with size 7 needles is 20 sts & 27 rows in a 4 inch square. Does this mean I should try size 8 swatch to see if it’s closer to the pattern size?
    Thanks!

  2. Beth, I’m starting my ribbing for the main body of the sweater. I am thinking about knitting the I-cord as I go. Are you far enough along in the sweater to see if this is a viable option?

  3. I tried an 8 without much change prior to blocking, so currently I am using size 9 and I’m at 18 sts in 4 inches and 12 rows in 2 inches before blocking. Should I use a 10? I apparently knit super tightly!

  4. Kayla, Wow, you must knit tight! Is it hard to get the needle in your stitches? If so, you might want to try knitting more loosely.

  5. Kimberly, I have not tried that. I think the edge would not be as robust if you do the i-cord edge as opposed to the attached i-cord. It should still look nice, though.

  6. So my swatches are vastly different.
    US 9 (measured with you as well) was 15 sts and 24 rows in 4 inches blocked.
    US 8 was 20.5 sts and 33 rows in 4 inches blocked.
    I wasn’t able to make it to Stitch and Spin today and am hoping to get started on this cardigan before Thursday if you have any suggestions for me?

  7. Beth, I thought rows 35, 36, 37, & 38 were odd, but I knitted them anyway (without the changed to purl stitches) according to the chart before I just now found your corrections on the blog. I have a sunk feeling since I am now 15 rows beyond that point – oh no! What suggestions do you have?

  8. I knit my whole sweater with the mistaken chart. I don’t think anyone will notice! (I didn’t…)

  9. Beth, I decided that it probably won’t be noticed; so I’ve gone on. I’m almost ready to join the sleeves; that means another trip to come soak up your expertise.

  10. I will also be in soon, soaking up expertise. I am about finished with the body (well, about 20 more rows), ready to attach the sleeves. I knit the sleeves first, but ripped them out, so I need to start over. Question: I would like to do these with the moss stitch, but not sure how to stay in pattern with the increases. Is that something you can explain on here? For as frustrating as this can be at times I think I’m gonna love it when it is done…..

    I also went on after seeing the corrections in the charts…I don’t think it is noticeable….

  11. I think I found a video on the moss stitch increase, will give it a try and see if it works…see you soon!

  12. I elected not to shape the waist. By my calculation that is 37 rows of straight knitting. If you add that to the first 10 rows I am off the chart. Any suggestions?

  13. Nancy, Since we already spoke about this, I’m posting this reply for the benefit of others. You work through the chart one complete time, then a second time to the specified row.

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